First Part of Cave Overhall

The first part to the new cave improvements is complete. The walls have been painted and touched up in time for the new mat to arrive later this week. The new set of problems will be set in the next two weeks. It's looking good.

The Big Rev Set.

Its been a while since Ive had a chance to update the blog as most of my time has been taken up with the centre as the Winter draws in and climbers are forced more and more into the indoor environment. In order to keep everyone psyched for when the warm weather returns Revolution has started a big clean of all the holds in the centre, over 3000 of them. Each individual hold is being pressure washed and all the walls are being re set with the clean holds.

Ive tried many different methods of cleaning holds over the last five years but by far the pressure washer doe's the job the best. So far we have cleaned and re set the whole of the 9m walls plus the huge five meter roof and cave area. The rest is due to be completed over the next week or two.

Not only this but the roof has seen a brand new set of problems being put up by both myself and Rob Hutton, our resident route setter. These range from the jug fest yellow route which although big will be sure to pump you out to our very technical Blue route. The routes across the ceiling range from 5c through to 7c so there really is something for everyone to go at. Not only this but the higher 9m walls have also been re set with grades from 3a through to 6c.

Ill update the blog as and when we the other walls are re set with our nice and shiny holds. In the meantime, let me know what you think of the problems and if you've got any idea's regarding what routes you'd like to see then feel free to either speak to me at the centre or drop me an email sam@revolutionclimbingcentre.co.uk

So, i know we live i one of the flattest areas in the whole of UK but here at Revolution, were make sure your still in good shape for when the warmer weather returns.

No excuses now, get down and crank hard!!

Revolution Climbers Hit Portland

Over the week beginning 19th July 2010, four climbers who frequently climb at revolution visited the sport climbing crags in and around Portland. Kieran, Dave and Jack headed down on the Monday into Portland itself and started out by visiting The Cuttings to get their first taste of UK sport climbing. Wisely they picked a great crag to start on, with it small easy buttress coming into view first as you approach, with grades for all climbers.

The guys spent the next few days climbing on different crags in the area as well as visting some of the brilliant bouldering areas that Portland has to offer. By thursday Rob Hutton, another local climber and route setter at Revolution appeared on the scene. The boys then stepped it and started to hit some of the harder routes with multiple ascents of The Sod 6a at The Cuttings as well as nearly everyone getting on the classic easy route of Slingshot 4b.

With the boys not wanting to stop climbing some days the bouldering sessions lasted late into the night with headtorch sessions becoming the normally way to end the day. Kiaren and Jack also wanted to find out what Portland had to offer in the way of DWS so on hot day the boys headed over to the sea and tried a few of the V1 classics on the old Dock.



With the boys now running out of time they headed for a bit more bouldering with Rob taking away the top prize finally getting all the tough moves on an unnamed V5. With this being their first visit to portland they were unsure of what to expect but judging by the tales and the smiles when they came back, i reckon its safe to say they had a great time and it wont be long till they go back!

Revolution Climbers Perform Well at BMC Youth Final.

On Saturday 2nd June 2010 the BMC Youth Climbing Series Final took place at the awesome Ratho Climbing Centre. Two of Revolutions climbers had won the right to take part. Ellie Bacimester had a brilliant series by winning all of the qualifying rounds held throughout the South East to ensure her place at the final. Not bad for her first ever BMC competition!
Our other regular climber Izzy Cooke had also won her right to attend the final by finishing 3rd overall in her qualifying rounds.

The final sees a different setup with competitors now working in there areas team, with both Ellie and Izzy helping out the South East Team. The Girls spent all afternoon battling it out against the best youth climbers in Britain with Izzy flashing all three of her boulder problems to score full marks. On her rope attempts she managed to flash the first of the problem and getting a score of 94 on the second problem. The third problem was the hardest yet with Izzy managing a very respectable half height before peeling off.

Ellie had a similar good run on the boulder problems and being older had to lead all of her routes wheres as Izzy had the benefit of a top rope. Ellie managed a Flash on her first route and gaining very respectable points on her last two problems. The South East on the whole performed well with many team members placing high in the final results.

At the end of the day ellie had scored the highest team place for her group with a respectable 21st place. Izzy, who had already attended previous BMC finals for the last few years used her experience to good effect finishing in 9th place.

You can view the full results and the BMC take on the event here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=3743

With the South East scoring high it looked promising for the team to place high and at just after 6 the scores were announced with London and South East winning just beating the Peak team.

Well done to the whole team with special congratulations to Izzy and Ellie.

Round 3 in Kalymnos

Its been under 24 hours since i got back from my third trip to the Greek Island of Kalymnos. Its was another fantastic week with great weather and some world class rock. It was a bit of an epic getting out there with a 12 hour wait at Gatwick as the Greek airports decided to strike. The flight boarded around seven in the evening but then we were informed that we had to wait on the plane for another 1.5 hours as we had missed our take off slot. Because of the delay it meant we had missed the boat on the other side and we had another five hour wait in a restaurant in Kos before the boat came at six thirty in the morning. The eight hour trip out there from my front door to the hotelended up taking over 29 hours so by the time we arrived we were even more keen to hit the rock as we had wasted a day traveling despite being very tired.

Its been a while since i last tied on to the sharp end and i struggled with my head a bit for the first few days but soon started to get into the swing of things. No such problem for the other Revolution local Rob Hutton who got straight into the swing of things with ascents of upto 6c meaning he was back on track and on form to make his holiday goal of a 7a onsight. The other members of the trip also started well with Mark Croxall, Danie Rushmere, Ben Read and John Samways all climbing well.

This form continued with Mark and Ben attempting routes upto 8a with Mark making a successful ascents of Helios 8a at the North Cave area and Ben coming very close. Rob climbed as good as Ive ever seen him and came close to his 7a onsight goal. He climbed Kastor at Arhi on his first ascent but could not claim his onsight badge as he had already worked the route on a previous trip but it was a great effort. He did up his game when we visited Kasteli with an ascent of Krotdebiki 7b on his second go after belaying Mark Croxall on the same route giving him some beta.

It was fantastic to watch Mark, Ben and Danie climb making everything they climbed look easy and effortless. After Marks success of Helios he laid his sights on a quick ascent of Gaia 8b at Oddessy. With only a few days to go he started to work the route with good progress making all the moves but struggling on linking them. Next day he was back up at Odessey and tied on for the lead. Marks effort was amazing and he made it half way up the route before peeling off. After speaking with Mark he thinks it will go next time when he plans to go back in October with bit more fitness and stamia in tow.

We finished the week with an evening multi pitch climb. Ben, Rob, John and myself headed upto sector School to attempt the 125m routes of Kalymnos 2000 and Platon. I had previously done Platon on a trip back in 2007 so me and Rob jumped onto Kalynos 2000 will John and Ben went on Platon. The climbing is easy (upto 5c) but the view from the top is fantastic with views across the island and out to sea. The abseil off of the route proved more interesting. Ben and John went first abseiling from the top to the previous pitches anchors and then tying off their 70 meter rope and abseiling down all the way to the bottom. After dropping their rope me and Rob set of on our single 60meter Joker. Because we could only abseil 30 meters at a time we had to ab everything pitch making our descent alot longer. On pulling the rope at the end of the third abseil it became stuck and no amount of pulling would budge it. The decision was made that Rob would climb up on the other end of the rope belayed by myself and try and free it. I came close to dropping my belay device and before we had finished the light had faded. It was a long hot walk out made worst due to having no water. We arrived back in the hotel and hit the bar where we could finally laugh about the experience.



All in all we had a great trip and I'm already looking forward ed to going back. Its been great coming away with such talented climbers and its really pushed me to train harder and focus on becoming stronger. I only hope that the urge to train lasts. There are some photos of the trip in the toolbar to the left.



So its back to work tomorrow fresh with ideas of new routes. The centre will be reset in the next week so be sure to pop by and try them out.

Two weeks till Kalymnos!!

Its now just under two weeks till our trip to Kalymnos and preparation is going well. Ive been climbing more than ever to try and get in some kind of good shape for our trip with regular sessions focusing manly on my worst weakness.....Stamina. But with the new roof sections at Rev and the ability now to do long traverses over steep terrain on the bouldering walls means i have no excuse to at least try. We were slightly worried about our flight what with all this volcanic ash grounding all planes but at it seems we might be good to go now after speaking to the airline.

I'm really looking forward to it and it will be a great way to blow away these winter cobwebs with a bit of foreign sun. I'm off to Craggy Island Sutton in a bit to put to test all my training and to see how I'm performing.

Update on new B uild at Rev.

Right so its been a little over a week since i last updated you on the new upstairs build at Revolution. Its been all go with the floor going down last tuesday which looks really good and certinaly makes it look so close to being finshed but theres still quite a bit to go. The glass came this week for the main windows and the windows in the staircase walls and looks really good. Were just waiting on the sliding glass for the other window and the glass for the door and thats the glass done.

Downstairs is pretty much done with the main climbing recpetion looking really good. The walls have been re painted and the stock has come back into the cabinets and above the reception desk. The old kitched has been transformed as well with the walls now plaster boarded and painted and given a good clean along with its own lights. It looks and works really well.





Hopefully it wont be to long before we can open it to the public. Its now just a case of touching up and finishing off a few more odd jobs as well as the glass then we are ready to get it signed off by the building regs.

On other news the new lead wall above the arch has started to be set with Rob and myself putting up four routes. The far left line is open now as a top rope line only and the other two lines are still out of action. As soon as we fix in the quickdraws and some metal supports for these two lines we are good to go. Hopefully this will be done in the next week. The routes explore both the vertical and horisontal parts of the new section with the easiest of the routes being a jug fest of yellow holds going straight through the roof and up over the yellow wall. The hardest moves are gaining the new yellow wall via a thin rock over. It wont be long till you guys can find out for yourself. Three more routes have been added to the left hand top rope line with a fierce yellow and blue route as well as a good 5+ red line that will put to practice your bridging abilities!!




UPDATE: There is now a fierce green route taking somewhat of a wandering line through the longest section of the roof and over to the new yellow wall. This was set by rope and require a lot of stamina and good finger strength to overcome the small pockets on the roof. Again we hope to have this open to you in the next week.

New Build at Rev Update.

Upstairs Party Room

As promised below are a few photos of the new build i mentioned in a previous post. Its really coming along now and tomorrow we start the painting which is a good feeling. Were still waiting for the glass and the floor but these wont be long although we wont be finished as quickly as we would of liked.

Oh and if anyone asks you if you can give them a hand to sand a ceiling after dry lining it, run.......run away!!!!!

After Sanding The Ceiling. Nice!


View From The Upstairs Area Of The Centre

Revolution Climbers Perform Well in Recent Comps.

Two of the regular Revolution climbers have been busy on the competition scene of late with Isabelle Cooke and Ellie Bacmeister competiting in both the SIBL and the BMC Youth Climbing Series. Both girls entered all rounds of both competitions with Ellie winning every single round of the BMC comps to finish in top place and secure her place in the final in Scotland later on tis year. She also finished a very respectal 7th place in the SIBl in a category with over 40 climbers competing.

Isabelle has been just as pro active and has had a good competition season so far. She finihsed 3rd over all in the SIBL beating some much taller and experienced climbers. In the BMC Youth Climbing Series Isabelle finished 3rd overall which means she will be joining Ellie on the long trip up north to compete in the final at Ratho.

Both Girls have continued to improve with regular training sessions at the centre and have now got their sights set on the final. Both girls and their families joined me on a trip to Harrisons over the Autumn and managed to climb problems upto 5b. Not bad for their first trip outdoors.

Ill keep you updated as they continue to perform well. Hopefully the new walls at Revolution will be of help in their training.

Peace

Okay gonna promise to keep more updated.

Right so ive been pretty slack of late, alright really slack. Its been almost a year since my last post but think i might of got the bug back to post again. Its been really manic over the last year, so i thought id post up whats been happening. The 2009/10 SIBL series came and went with six fun packed round. I really enjoyed this years series with some great rounds and working with some of biggest names in the business. Was great to have a day setting with Gaz Parry at Evolution climbing wall and visiting walls id never been to before. Really looking forward to the next series. I have afew months break from it all now and will start the organising of it come late May.

In the mean time however i am still keeping busy. At the moment we are building a large extension at Revolution with the addition of some sick new lead lines and we are currently building a new upstairs specator area over looking the wall. It should all be completed in the next week or two and its gonna make the centre feel and work so much better. Its gonna be sick when its finished. Ill have some pictures up in the next day or two of how progress is going.

Ive also got a trip planned to Kalymnos again. It will be my third time out there and am really keen to finish off some of last years projects. Ill be heading over with some good mates from the centre, John Samways the Lyon rep for the centre and two sponsored climbers: Mark Croxall and Danie Rushmere. We leave on May 5th for one week. Really wanted to get the first flight out but that booked up within days so second flight out will have to do. Time to treat myself to some new shinney things me thinks.

Apart from that work has kept me busy. i have my brothers stag do and wedding in May too and im looking forward to making sure the stag do gets messey. Car is playing up and is gonna cost too much to fix so ebay awaits for it me thinks. It has however meant i have been getting out on the bike of late and to my surprise im really enjoying it. It takes only a few minutes more than my car to get me to work so ive no excuse really.

Keep an eye on the SIBL website for more updates on the up and coming 2010/11 series.

Climb On!

Sardinia 2009

Okay, so while my Internet connection has been down I was away in Sardinia for a week with some guys from the centre. Again another fantastic holiday with its usual ups and downs and some great laughs along the way too. Below is a quick summary of our trip.

We left Sunday morning around 1am for Gatwick Airport. I had just finished a 12 hour shift so was defiantly not in the mood for the drive up but knowing your going away kind of keeps you up for it and before long we were at Gatwick buzzing.

After picking up the hire car over in Sardinia we started the two hour drive down to Cala Gonone and before long had arrived, dumped the gear in the apartment, and were at the first Crag of the holiday, a nice warm up and refresh days climbing at Cala Gonone. Some of the guys had done limited sport climbing before so we re capped on some the techniques used in sport climbing and before long they were away and climbing.

Next day saw us up at 'I Tornanti/Aguaplano' on the hill going out of Cala Gonone. The sport climbing newbie’s really started to shine with Flashes of 6a's on their second day and good attempts at harder routes. Myself and Rob cranked out a couple of nice 6+ routes before getting totally shut down on SunnyGirl. This route is defiantly going to make an appearance again next time im over there but its fingery all the way and fingers of steel are recommended. In the evening more guys turned up in the form of Tim and Jenny who had flew out at a later date to see us.

Next day and with a slight Hangover! we were out again and as team began visiting new and old crags climbing at our respective grades. Tim had unfortunately hurt his finger and was out for the week but came along anyway to offer his belaying assistance. The week was spent much in the same way visiting crags both in Cala Gonone and further afield. Unfortunately on the second to last day i pulled my tendons in my left hand and was unable to climb again for the holiday and became chauffeur to the guys. Highlights of the trip Include:

Robs 7b Red point at Cala Fuili
Branding
6b On sights my team members
6a flashes from the new guys
and good good food.

There are some pictures in the toolbar on the left hand side of the page of our trip away.
Until next time!!!

Update on Competition Team

Unfortunately I have had big problems with my Internet connection but i think the problem has been solved now so im back.

First off a rather late update on what has been going on with our competition climbers. The main news is our young star at Revolution, Isabelle. She has now finished all three rounds of the BMC Youth Climbing Series and achieved a personal best of 2nd place overall. This means she is on her way to the Final to help support the South East Team in retaining there winning form in the competition. The Final is to be held At The Westway climbing centre in June.

Izzy is hard at work training and is now visiting the centre more and more often helping to maximise her chances of success.

We wish Izzy all the best for the competition along with the rest of the South-East Team.

Round two- More success for Izzy

Izzy has managed to continue her recent good form in the BMC youth climbing series
by climbing to 2nd place once again. The event was held at the castle climbing centre in London with the same layout of three top
rope problems and three boulder problems.

Izzy now has one round left to decide weather she makes it into the final and join the other
south east winners to battle it out for national region glory.

A massive well done to Izzy once again and good luck for the third round on 25th April 2009

Competition climbing - Isabelle Cooke

Isabelle has now been climbing at the centre for over two years and has managed some great competition results already. In 2007/08 Izzy entered the SIBL (Southern Indoor Bouldering League) competition and after six rounds at different centres she managed a very impressive 10th place. Not bad for a first competition. Izzy then tried her luck at the BMC Youth Climbing Series in 2008 and came third overall to secure her place on the South East Team who went to battle it out against the other regions teams at Rathro in Edinburgh were the south East team won first place in her category. Izzy kept up her good form in the 2008/09 SIBL were she finished 7th overall.

Izzy managed to get her best result in the first round of 2009 BMC Youth Climbing Series by climbing to 2nd place. She managed clean accents of all three lines
up to 7a. Not bad for 11 years old. She managed all but one of the boulder problems falling from near the top. There are two more rounds left and to reach the final Izzy must finish in the top three competitors. I will update the blog as news comes in of her results

Revolution would like to say a massive well done to Izzy and good luck for the next round!

Peak Trip Feb/ March 09

Well, I have just got back from a trip to the Peak District with a couple of guys from the centre. We started of by driving the five and half hours to Almscliff and spent the day bouldering there getting up to V5. The next day we spent a damp session on the boulders at Caley which were certainly very impressive but the large majority of climbs we had come to do were not in condition so we made do we what was available and had an easy morning on the lower grade climbs round ‘The playground’ area climbing up to V4. We then visited Ilkley on the same day and viewed some of the impressive trad lines and the newly climbed ‘Getty’ which stood as one of Grit stones last great problems. We finished off by driving the hour or so south to Widdopp which proved to be a very isolated crag on the edge of widdopp reservoir. We had the whole place to ourselves and I pleasantly surprised to find the boulders in good condition.

Sam on the V5 eliminate at Almscliff

Next stop was Stanage and time to get the trad gear out. Conditions went good with very strong winds and some small outbursts of rain so we passed the day climbing some of the three star routes up to VS.
The next day conditions were not good again so we passed the day by visiting some of the other crags for a look around including Cratcliff, Frogatt and Cubar. We managed to squeeze a few climbs in but again conditions weren’t that confidence inspiring and the friction was not as good as we wanted to try some of the harder lines.

The weekend was clear and at times sunny (a first for me on grit climbing) and we were finally able to get to Stanage and climbs some the E1’s we had come for. After a bit of practice we managed to climb Elephant on a dog house which is graded E1 5b. Rich later went onto solo the route which was very impressive. We finished the trip off with a session on the Plantation boulders at Stanage with ticks of the Green traverse V6 and very close attempts on Deliverance being had by some of the guys.

Sam On Sunset Crack, Froggatt

All in all a good trip and everyone went home happy if not with sore Grit bashed hands. There are some photos of our visit on the Left hand side of the page.

Success!!

So, finally managed to get the V9 problem finished about a week ago. As for the grade im really not too sure. The Crux more is a blind semi dyno round the corner of the overhang and although a hard move in itself its made harder by the fact its blind and I find I do it quite inconsistently. For me id put it about v8 compared to other routes I have done. Im just not that sure that it is V9 as although it has taken me longer to complete than other v8’s I think that’s down to the fact I am inconsistent on the blind move and that’s not because it’s a V9 move its just because its blind. It has had other repeats by some of the guys working it and grades have range from v7 to v9 but most agree its around v8. Anyway, onto the next creation. Route setting should be completed in the next week so no doubt our setters can come up with something equally as hard.

Update on Project.

Well I've been on and off with the project since the last post as i have damaged my hand holding that horrible 'sharks fin' hold. But i got back on it today and fell from the last move so I'm still pretty pleased with it and with any luck it will go soon.

Half term is steaming towards us now so i doubt ill get much time to play on it during next week. I plan to have a few days on it and hopefully i can get it ticked before i head off to the Peak District the following week. I still have not got round to getting a good shot of it but hopefully i will do soon (when i remember my camera).

Its the last move which is proving to be the hardest but i have done it as a move on its own just not with the rest of the route before hand. Ive been training real hard lately with special attention to replicating that move so fingers crossed the next time i report it will be ticked.

My V9 Project

So again. its been awhile since i updated this but I'm gonna try and keep it updated a bit better now. As some of you who have visited the centre lately your see we have installed three new volumes and re built the old slab area. If you haven't seen, then get down here and try it out!!!

As for myself, Ive currently been trying to work on a V9 problem which was set when Gav Simmonds visited the centre for his lecture. The problem is on the smallest blue overhang and starts with a small crimp to a long layaway feature. Its then straight up to a medium size flat hold on the side of the wall with your right hand. This hold is fairly poor but because of your body position is holdable. In this position you then lunge out left to a small 'Sharks Fin' hold on the roof of the overhang. This is hard to hold but by wrapping my whole hand around the 'Fin' its a little easier. Now up to this point i have wired and is only around V4. From here it gets a little tricky. With your hands were they are you have to work your feet up the layaway feature and then with your left foot toe hook the small flat hold in your left hand. When you feel you have the toe hook secure you have to realise your left hand. At this point you are now hanging by your right hand on the small Sharks fin on the roof and with your left toe around the corner on the flat hold. From this hanging position its a full stretch out to a small cup hold on the lip of the roof with your left hand. This move has be done with your toe remaining in place which is fairly hard.

The next move is the first crux of the problem for me. Once you have your left hand on the small cup and your right hand still on the sharks fin with your left toe on the small flat hold you have to realise your toe and working with the momentum of the swing let go with your right hand and grab a small egg shaped hold around the corner of the overhang. Landing this is very hard and is worthy of a V7 move in its own right. On the few occasions i have landed this its then all upper body strength for the next move.

Once landed you find yourself in a hanging position with your right hand on the egg hold and the left hand on small cup. From here you pull up and put my left heel where my left hand is on the cup hold and match hands on the egg shaped hold. From this its a huge pull to a small flat pebble with my left hand and then comes the second two move crux. For me this is for sure the hardest and boldest move on the route.

You have to pull up on this very small pebble by rocking over on your left foot still in the cup hold. half way through the rock over by turning my right hand down on the egg shaped hold it allows me to push up a little higher. Once 'locked' in this position you have to work you right foot to your right hand and then drop your left foot to hang directly underneath you. Its then a case of standing up and reaching through to the last medium size hold whilst still crimping like mad to with your left hand on the small pebble. This last move warrants a grade of V8/9.

i have done every move now but so far have failed to link the problem. i will update shortly with pictures of the route. If you fancy giving it a go then come and speak to me at the centre and ill show you the problem .

Dave and Rob back from Spain

Just had a call from Dave and they are now back from there Deep Water Soloing adventures in Spain. They managed some great ascents for a first taste of DWS with Dave getting a Red Point of a 6c+ line after a few splash downs. Rob had a few shaky starts but soon got used to it all and i think by the sounds of things dave has now found a new passion within the sport. I Can see many DWS trips in the future and hope this time ican get in on the action.

I hope to have some pictures from them soon so will get these posted up.


On a different note Revolution has now been totally re-set with problems from V0 to V8 so come down and check them out. If your interested in getting in on the route setting action email me at sam@revolutionskatepark.co.uk as we are always on the look out for new setters.

Long Awaited Update.

Its been a while since i posted so thought id give an update. its been a manic summer so far with everything being full on apart from climbing!!!!!!!!. I have only mananged training sessions at revolution with the odd day out at the local sandstone. I have managed to regain my previous form on sandstone by ticking two 6b's on the north boulde at harisons. Sam On the 6b Aligator snatch

Currently i have no trips planned but both Dave and Rob who i regular climb with and are punters at the centre are both away for a bit of Deep water Soloing in Spain. I had one phone call with reports of highball splash downs and alot of elvis leggs but they are slowly getting used the fact they have no rope. Gonna try and keep more regular updates as the winter season is now slowly upon us and next year is already looking fully booked with personal holidays and work holidays. Until then peace out!