Okay, so while my Internet connection has been down I was away in Sardinia for a week with some guys from the centre. Again another fantastic holiday with its usual ups and downs and some great laughs along the way too. Below is a quick summary of our trip.
We left Sunday morning around 1am for Gatwick Airport. I had just finished a 12 hour shift so was defiantly not in the mood for the drive up but knowing your going away kind of keeps you up for it and before long we were at Gatwick buzzing.
After picking up the hire car over in Sardinia we started the two hour drive down to Cala Gonone and before long had arrived, dumped the gear in the apartment, and were at the first Crag of the holiday, a nice warm up and refresh days climbing at Cala Gonone. Some of the guys had done limited sport climbing before so we re capped on some the techniques used in sport climbing and before long they were away and climbing.
Next day saw us up at 'I Tornanti/Aguaplano' on the hill going out of Cala Gonone. The sport climbing newbie’s really started to shine with Flashes of 6a's on their second day and good attempts at harder routes. Myself and Rob cranked out a couple of nice 6+ routes before getting totally shut down on SunnyGirl. This route is defiantly going to make an appearance again next time im over there but its fingery all the way and fingers of steel are recommended. In the evening more guys turned up in the form of Tim and Jenny who had flew out at a later date to see us.
Next day and with a slight Hangover! we were out again and as team began visiting new and old crags climbing at our respective grades. Tim had unfortunately hurt his finger and was out for the week but came along anyway to offer his belaying assistance. The week was spent much in the same way visiting crags both in Cala Gonone and further afield. Unfortunately on the second to last day i pulled my tendons in my left hand and was unable to climb again for the holiday and became chauffeur to the guys. Highlights of the trip Include:
Robs 7b Red point at Cala Fuili
Branding
6b On sights my team members
6a flashes from the new guys
and good good food.
There are some pictures in the toolbar on the left hand side of the page of our trip away.
Until next time!!!
Sunday, 24 May 2009
Update on Competition Team
Unfortunately I have had big problems with my Internet connection but i think the problem has been solved now so im back.
First off a rather late update on what has been going on with our competition climbers. The main news is our young star at Revolution, Isabelle. She has now finished all three rounds of the BMC Youth Climbing Series and achieved a personal best of 2nd place overall. This means she is on her way to the Final to help support the South East Team in retaining there winning form in the competition. The Final is to be held At The Westway climbing centre in June.
Izzy is hard at work training and is now visiting the centre more and more often helping to maximise her chances of success.
We wish Izzy all the best for the competition along with the rest of the South-East Team.
First off a rather late update on what has been going on with our competition climbers. The main news is our young star at Revolution, Isabelle. She has now finished all three rounds of the BMC Youth Climbing Series and achieved a personal best of 2nd place overall. This means she is on her way to the Final to help support the South East Team in retaining there winning form in the competition. The Final is to be held At The Westway climbing centre in June.
Izzy is hard at work training and is now visiting the centre more and more often helping to maximise her chances of success.
We wish Izzy all the best for the competition along with the rest of the South-East Team.
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Round two- More success for Izzy
Izzy has managed to continue her recent good form in the BMC youth climbing series
by climbing to 2nd place once again. The event was held at the castle climbing centre in London with the same layout of three top
rope problems and three boulder problems.
Izzy now has one round left to decide weather she makes it into the final and join the other
south east winners to battle it out for national region glory.
A massive well done to Izzy once again and good luck for the third round on 25th April 2009
by climbing to 2nd place once again. The event was held at the castle climbing centre in London with the same layout of three top
rope problems and three boulder problems.
Izzy now has one round left to decide weather she makes it into the final and join the other
south east winners to battle it out for national region glory.
A massive well done to Izzy once again and good luck for the third round on 25th April 2009
Friday, 27 March 2009
Competition climbing - Isabelle Cooke
Isabelle has now been climbing at the centre for over two years and has managed some great competition results already. In 2007/08 Izzy entered the SIBL (Southern Indoor Bouldering League) competition and after six rounds at different centres she managed a very impressive 10th place. Not bad for a first competition. Izzy then tried her luck at the BMC Youth Climbing Series in 2008 and came third overall to secure her place on the South East Team who went to battle it out against the other regions teams at Rathro in Edinburgh were the south East team won first place in her category. Izzy kept up her good form in the 2008/09 SIBL were she finished 7th overall.
Izzy managed to get her best result in the first round of 2009 BMC Youth Climbing Series by climbing to 2nd place. She managed clean accents of all three lines
up to 7a. Not bad for 11 years old. She managed all but one of the boulder problems falling from near the top. There are two more rounds left and to reach the final Izzy must finish in the top three competitors. I will update the blog as news comes in of her results
Revolution would like to say a massive well done to Izzy and good luck for the next round!
Izzy managed to get her best result in the first round of 2009 BMC Youth Climbing Series by climbing to 2nd place. She managed clean accents of all three lines
up to 7a. Not bad for 11 years old. She managed all but one of the boulder problems falling from near the top. There are two more rounds left and to reach the final Izzy must finish in the top three competitors. I will update the blog as news comes in of her results
Revolution would like to say a massive well done to Izzy and good luck for the next round!
Saturday, 7 March 2009
Peak Trip Feb/ March 09
Well, I have just got back from a trip to the Peak District with a couple of guys from the centre. We started of by driving the five and half hours to Almscliff and spent the day bouldering there getting up to V5. The next day we spent a damp session on the boulders at Caley which were certainly very impressive but the large majority of climbs we had come to do were not in condition so we made do we what was available and had an easy morning on the lower grade climbs round ‘The playground’ area climbing up to V4. We then visited Ilkley on the same day and viewed some of the impressive trad lines and the newly climbed ‘Getty’ which stood as one of Grit stones last great problems. We finished off by driving the hour or so south to Widdopp which proved to be a very isolated crag on the edge of widdopp reservoir. We had the whole place to ourselves and I pleasantly surprised to find the boulders in good condition.
Sam on the V5 eliminate at Almscliff
Next stop was Stanage and time to get the trad gear out. Conditions went good with very strong winds and some small outbursts of rain so we passed the day climbing some of the three star routes up to VS.
The next day conditions were not good again so we passed the day by visiting some of the other crags for a look around including Cratcliff, Frogatt and Cubar. We managed to squeeze a few climbs in but again conditions weren’t that confidence inspiring and the friction was not as good as we wanted to try some of the harder lines.
The weekend was clear and at times sunny (a first for me on grit climbing) and we were finally able to get to Stanage and climbs some the E1’s we had come for. After a bit of practice we managed to climb Elephant on a dog house which is graded E1 5b. Rich later went onto solo the route which was very impressive. We finished the trip off with a session on the Plantation boulders at Stanage with ticks of the Green traverse V6 and very close attempts on Deliverance being had by some of the guys.
Sam On Sunset Crack, Froggatt
All in all a good trip and everyone went home happy if not with sore Grit bashed hands. There are some photos of our visit on the Left hand side of the page.
Sam on the V5 eliminate at AlmscliffThe next day conditions were not good again so we passed the day by visiting some of the other crags for a look around including Cratcliff, Frogatt and Cubar. We managed to squeeze a few climbs in but again conditions weren’t that confidence inspiring and the friction was not as good as we wanted to try some of the harder lines.
The weekend was clear and at times sunny (a first for me on grit climbing) and we were finally able to get to Stanage and climbs some the E1’s we had come for. After a bit of practice we managed to climb Elephant on a dog house which is graded E1 5b. Rich later went onto solo the route which was very impressive. We finished the trip off with a session on the Plantation boulders at Stanage with ticks of the Green traverse V6 and very close attempts on Deliverance being had by some of the guys.
Sam On Sunset Crack, FroggattSuccess!!
So, finally managed to get the V9 problem finished about a week ago. As for the grade im really not too sure. The Crux more is a blind semi dyno round the corner of the overhang and although a hard move in itself its made harder by the fact its blind and I find I do it quite inconsistently. For me id put it about v8 compared to other routes I have done. Im just not that sure that it is V9 as although it has taken me longer to complete than other v8’s I think that’s down to the fact I am inconsistent on the blind move and that’s not because it’s a V9 move its just because its blind. It has had other repeats by some of the guys working it and grades have range from v7 to v9 but most agree its around v8. Anyway, onto the next creation. Route setting should be completed in the next week so no doubt our setters can come up with something equally as hard.
Friday, 13 February 2009
Update on Project.
Well I've been on and off with the project since the last post as i have damaged my hand holding that horrible 'sharks fin' hold. But i got back on it today and fell from the last move so I'm still pretty pleased with it and with any luck it will go soon.
Half term is steaming towards us now so i doubt ill get much time to play on it during next week. I plan to have a few days on it and hopefully i can get it ticked before i head off to the Peak District the following week. I still have not got round to getting a good shot of it but hopefully i will do soon (when i remember my camera).
Its the last move which is proving to be the hardest but i have done it as a move on its own just not with the rest of the route before hand. Ive been training real hard lately with special attention to replicating that move so fingers crossed the next time i report it will be ticked.
Half term is steaming towards us now so i doubt ill get much time to play on it during next week. I plan to have a few days on it and hopefully i can get it ticked before i head off to the Peak District the following week. I still have not got round to getting a good shot of it but hopefully i will do soon (when i remember my camera).
Its the last move which is proving to be the hardest but i have done it as a move on its own just not with the rest of the route before hand. Ive been training real hard lately with special attention to replicating that move so fingers crossed the next time i report it will be ticked.
Saturday, 7 February 2009
My V9 Project
So again. its been awhile since i updated this but I'm gonna try and keep it updated a bit better now. As some of you who have visited the centre lately your see we have installed three new volumes and re built the old slab area. If you haven't seen, then get down here and try it out!!!
As for myself, Ive currently been trying to work on a V9 problem which was set when Gav Simmonds visited the centre for his lecture. The problem is on the smallest blue overhang and starts with a small crimp to a long layaway feature. Its then straight up to a medium size flat hold on the side of the wall with your right hand. This hold is fairly poor but because of your body position is holdable. In this position you then lunge out left to a small 'Sharks Fin' hold on the roof of the overhang. This is hard to hold but by wrapping my whole hand around the 'Fin' its a little easier. Now up to this point i have wired and is only around V4. From here it gets a little tricky. With your hands were they are you have to work your feet up the layaway feature and then with your left foot toe hook the small flat hold in your left hand. When you feel you have the toe hook secure you have to realise your left hand. At this point you are now hanging by your right hand on the small Sharks fin on the roof and with your left toe around the corner on the flat hold. From this hanging position its a full stretch out to a small cup hold on the lip of the roof with your left hand. This move has be done with your toe remaining in place which is fairly hard.
The next move is the first crux of the problem for me. Once you have your left hand on the small cup and your right hand still on the sharks fin with your left toe on the small flat hold you have to realise your toe and working with the momentum of the swing let go with your right hand and grab a small egg shaped hold around the corner of the overhang. Landing this is very hard and is worthy of a V7 move in its own right. On the few occasions i have landed this its then all upper body strength for the next move.
Once landed you find yourself in a hanging position with your right hand on the egg hold and the left hand on small cup. From here you pull up and put my left heel where my left hand is on the cup hold and match hands on the egg shaped hold. From this its a huge pull to a small flat pebble with my left hand and then comes the second two move crux. For me this is for sure the hardest and boldest move on the route.
You have to pull up on this very small pebble by rocking over on your left foot still in the cup hold. half way through the rock over by turning my right hand down on the egg shaped hold it allows me to push up a little higher. Once 'locked' in this position you have to work you right foot to your right hand and then drop your left foot to hang directly underneath you. Its then a case of standing up and reaching through to the last medium size hold whilst still crimping like mad to with your left hand on the small pebble. This last move warrants a grade of V8/9.
i have done every move now but so far have failed to link the problem. i will update shortly with pictures of the route. If you fancy giving it a go then come and speak to me at the centre and ill show you the problem .
As for myself, Ive currently been trying to work on a V9 problem which was set when Gav Simmonds visited the centre for his lecture. The problem is on the smallest blue overhang and starts with a small crimp to a long layaway feature. Its then straight up to a medium size flat hold on the side of the wall with your right hand. This hold is fairly poor but because of your body position is holdable. In this position you then lunge out left to a small 'Sharks Fin' hold on the roof of the overhang. This is hard to hold but by wrapping my whole hand around the 'Fin' its a little easier. Now up to this point i have wired and is only around V4. From here it gets a little tricky. With your hands were they are you have to work your feet up the layaway feature and then with your left foot toe hook the small flat hold in your left hand. When you feel you have the toe hook secure you have to realise your left hand. At this point you are now hanging by your right hand on the small Sharks fin on the roof and with your left toe around the corner on the flat hold. From this hanging position its a full stretch out to a small cup hold on the lip of the roof with your left hand. This move has be done with your toe remaining in place which is fairly hard.
The next move is the first crux of the problem for me. Once you have your left hand on the small cup and your right hand still on the sharks fin with your left toe on the small flat hold you have to realise your toe and working with the momentum of the swing let go with your right hand and grab a small egg shaped hold around the corner of the overhang. Landing this is very hard and is worthy of a V7 move in its own right. On the few occasions i have landed this its then all upper body strength for the next move.
Once landed you find yourself in a hanging position with your right hand on the egg hold and the left hand on small cup. From here you pull up and put my left heel where my left hand is on the cup hold and match hands on the egg shaped hold. From this its a huge pull to a small flat pebble with my left hand and then comes the second two move crux. For me this is for sure the hardest and boldest move on the route.
You have to pull up on this very small pebble by rocking over on your left foot still in the cup hold. half way through the rock over by turning my right hand down on the egg shaped hold it allows me to push up a little higher. Once 'locked' in this position you have to work you right foot to your right hand and then drop your left foot to hang directly underneath you. Its then a case of standing up and reaching through to the last medium size hold whilst still crimping like mad to with your left hand on the small pebble. This last move warrants a grade of V8/9.
i have done every move now but so far have failed to link the problem. i will update shortly with pictures of the route. If you fancy giving it a go then come and speak to me at the centre and ill show you the problem .
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