My V9 Project

So again. its been awhile since i updated this but I'm gonna try and keep it updated a bit better now. As some of you who have visited the centre lately your see we have installed three new volumes and re built the old slab area. If you haven't seen, then get down here and try it out!!!

As for myself, Ive currently been trying to work on a V9 problem which was set when Gav Simmonds visited the centre for his lecture. The problem is on the smallest blue overhang and starts with a small crimp to a long layaway feature. Its then straight up to a medium size flat hold on the side of the wall with your right hand. This hold is fairly poor but because of your body position is holdable. In this position you then lunge out left to a small 'Sharks Fin' hold on the roof of the overhang. This is hard to hold but by wrapping my whole hand around the 'Fin' its a little easier. Now up to this point i have wired and is only around V4. From here it gets a little tricky. With your hands were they are you have to work your feet up the layaway feature and then with your left foot toe hook the small flat hold in your left hand. When you feel you have the toe hook secure you have to realise your left hand. At this point you are now hanging by your right hand on the small Sharks fin on the roof and with your left toe around the corner on the flat hold. From this hanging position its a full stretch out to a small cup hold on the lip of the roof with your left hand. This move has be done with your toe remaining in place which is fairly hard.

The next move is the first crux of the problem for me. Once you have your left hand on the small cup and your right hand still on the sharks fin with your left toe on the small flat hold you have to realise your toe and working with the momentum of the swing let go with your right hand and grab a small egg shaped hold around the corner of the overhang. Landing this is very hard and is worthy of a V7 move in its own right. On the few occasions i have landed this its then all upper body strength for the next move.

Once landed you find yourself in a hanging position with your right hand on the egg hold and the left hand on small cup. From here you pull up and put my left heel where my left hand is on the cup hold and match hands on the egg shaped hold. From this its a huge pull to a small flat pebble with my left hand and then comes the second two move crux. For me this is for sure the hardest and boldest move on the route.

You have to pull up on this very small pebble by rocking over on your left foot still in the cup hold. half way through the rock over by turning my right hand down on the egg shaped hold it allows me to push up a little higher. Once 'locked' in this position you have to work you right foot to your right hand and then drop your left foot to hang directly underneath you. Its then a case of standing up and reaching through to the last medium size hold whilst still crimping like mad to with your left hand on the small pebble. This last move warrants a grade of V8/9.

i have done every move now but so far have failed to link the problem. i will update shortly with pictures of the route. If you fancy giving it a go then come and speak to me at the centre and ill show you the problem .