Flying visit to Stanage

The other week myself and Dave made a flying one day visit to Stanage. Because Stanage is about five hours from home we had a early start picking Dave up from Canterbury at 4am. After a long drive along very boring and monotonous roads we finally pulled up at Stanage around 9am to find it lightly raining. Typical!. Any other day we would of pulled the car around and gone home but due to the length and effort we'd taken to get here we were not just going to go home. We decided to a have a warm up on the boulders beneath the plantation area. after a few hours we had a good number of ticks under our belt including a favorite boulder problem of mine Hourglass. Its a one move wonder really but its a good one. we got kicked back on a fee of the classic hard problems such as Brad Bit and Deliverance but its all part of the fun. Something to work towards!. Neither of us had a guide book for the bouldering so spent most of the time just playing on what we thought were good and interesting lines. There are some videos and pictures of us bouldering in the menu to the right.


The weather was still poor and due to the cold beginning to take effect we decided we would head back to the car for a bite to eat a blast the heaters. After lunch we got the rack out the boot and headed back up for a few climbs. Dave had no experience of trad climbing so we broke him in gently with a few serves and by the end of the day he was comfortably leading VS. We had enough time before dark to get some practice in with anchor management and then headed back to the car. The drive home seamed to take forever but service station coffee is a remarkable wake up especially when they tell you the price.

Greece Sept 2007 Write Up

So, just got back from Greece about five hours ago and thought id update you guys with what went on. Everyone had a great time and got plenty of climbing done as well as the occasional drinking session in Club Loca where Richard found out that him and Ouzo don't mix to well him. Ha ha. At least it only took him THREE days to recover from the hangover. Lightweight!!!!

Dave and Rob roping up in Kastelli.

Anyway back to the climbing after a mix up with transport which resulted in a few laughs the highlight of which was when Rob crashed the scooter into a wall why trying to prove to the bloke he could drive it. the guy then resulted in taking out his anger on me as if i was Rob's dad. First class effort by Rob. Nice one. This meant i had a scooter (oh yes) and others shared a car and we headed down to Kastelli to kick off the week with some easy to mid grade climbing. Unfortunately i went into holiday with pulled muscles in my hand so took the first day easy with a few easy climbs which also meant i was able to tick off the whole of that sector which was pretty neat. I also managed to a couple of 6a's which i had not done before. Richard and myself suffered in the heat the first day and found out the hard way that climbing in 40c wasn't much fun. meanwhile Dave and Rob had headed round the corner to a cave to try out a couple of 7b overhanging routes which looked pretty neat. we hooked up with them looking very burnt about an hour into there session. They had met a German guy who had just soloed one of the routes and spent the afternoon climbing with him. we managed to get the saying of the holiday off this guy because every time he made a move and liked it he told us "We must taste it". Brilliant. Li stern out for it at Rev as its quite catchy really.

Next day we decided on a bit of multi pitch climbing and headed to Sector School for a competition. Two routes which run next to each other at the same grade of 5c at a lenght of 125m meant we could split into teams and race up the two lines losing team buying the beers tonight. So Dave and Myself where one team and Rob and Rich the other. Dave and myself got the route called Platon and the other team got kalymnos 2000. Me and rob went first for each team and raced up joining the first and second pitch together and after a little cheating on there side by stealing my line meaning i had to wait for a bit we reached the chains and brought up our partners. Dave and rich led the next two pitches and as i followed i broke off a hold which i still have which scared the hell out of me. If its slightly harder now you can blame me!!!! The race ended with Dave and myself clear winners sitting onto before Rich and Rob. The view was amazing.

Rob and Myself at the top of the multi pitch climb.
Just gotta get back down now!

The next few days were spent climbing at various sectors with Rob and Dave really turning up the heat with some amazing climbing of 6c+ and 7a's. Dave gets the award for the biggest fall at Sector Ghost kitchen with an impressive 8m lob whilst trying to work the moves on an 6c+. Good effort mate. Finally he managed to clip the chains just before night fall. grades kept falling as Dave and Rob tore apart various sectors climbing up to 7a with Rob managing the highest redpoint of 7a. Fantastic work.

Days went past and more sectors were visited with various results and always plenty of laughs out of rich. We were able to hook up with Neil Gresham, one day at sector Oddesy were we had a cool chat and watched him breeze up a 7c. Amazing climbing. We all visited club loca one night with rich getting plastered and riding the back of some guys scooter home and then deciding it was to hot so jumped in the pool!!! We also got introduced to the crazy ways of the local taxi drivers when one decided to crash into the side of our hire car and then laughed, waved at us and drove off. Oh well!!. After eating like kings for the week in every restaurant in town and tearing apart some of the local crags it was time to say goodbye for another few months. Everyone made some great climbs and personal bests were broke.

there are some more photos and videos on the Right of this page. Nice one guys and thanks for a brilliant holiday. Laters.

Off to Greece!!!

Tonight sees rob. Rich, Dave and myself flying out to Kalymnos one of the Greek islands for a week of sports climbing. Rich and Dave are way in the lead at the moment being full of confidence as they only got back from a weeks climbing in Sardinia under a week ago. They will be fully pumped and ready for the stamina testing routes. We will be getting back Wednesday next week and i will update the blog then with pictures and trip report. Fingers crossed it all goes well.
laters.

Glad we did not go.

So as you know due to bad health we were unable to get over to mount blanc for the week we had intended. This turned out however to be quite a blessing in disguise. It has been reported that the week we were due to bew on the mountain was one of the worst weeks for weather and in fact our summit day push would of been in near white out conditions. Not to much fun. The following report is from Alpinist.com

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"In one month, a series of tragedies in the Swiss and French Alps took the lives of about thirty people.

At the end of July eight climbers were surprised by incoming bad weather while climbing Mont Blanc (4808m) from Chamonix. Lost halfway up the French Normal Route, heavy snowstorms kept the party from finding a way out. Rescue workers from the PGHM (high mountain police) tried to find them in horrible conditions, and were forced down by thunderstorms. Finally there was a small window of clear weather when a helicopter was able to pick up a group of four from the Italian side of the mountain. The other four (one Frenchman and three women from Great Britain, Chile and New Zealand) were found dead the next day.

hat same day six German climbers got in trouble on the Italian side of Monte Rosa (4634 m) and were forced to spend the night, without bivy gear, outside in a storm. The next day one woman was found dead and another seriously incapacitated due to hypothermia. At the Grand Combin (4314m) a Polish climber fell to his death, and in the Swiss Bernese Oberland rescue workers saved the lives of six climbers who were stuck near the summit of the Monch. Through a storm they climbed the mountain to find all six shivering in the snow. The helicopter winched some of them; the others descended by foot. The chief of the Grindelwald rescue station said it was one of the most strenuous rescue operations in recent years.

In the week following, two climbers died on the Matterhorn. Both fell to their death while descending via the Hornli Ridge. The same week Air Zermatt, the helicopter rescue service in the Swiss mountains of Wallis, was extremely busy. Many times they successfully brought help, but for some climbers it was too late. At least three fell to their death after stumbling on hiking paths, and two Polish climbers fell several hundred meters from the Allalinhorn mountain near the Swiss village of Saas Fee. In two other accidents, three young Swiss died by falling from the Obergabelhorn, and a tragic accident on the Aletschgletjser took the life of Claude Rey, President of the International Guides Association (IFMGA). He was, early in the morning on July 28, walking from the Konkordiahut towards the glacier, when he fell through a snow bridge on the moraines. Air Zermatt was able to recover his body, but he died later that day in the Hospital of Sitten.

A Chamonix-based PGHM (high mountain police) rescue chopper. The PGHM has been working overtime to accomodate the large volume of rescue calls this summer. [Photo] Menno Boermans

Another accident occurred on Mont Blanc, taking the lives of a French man and his son. They fell through the cornice of the Arete de Bionassay. Some days later a climber was descending through the Grand Couloir of Mont Blanc when he lost his balance and fell about 100 meters. Also dead.

On August 2 another cold front hit the Alps. Two German climbers at the Weismies, above Saas Grund, got in trouble when lightning struck and seriously injured one of them. Air Zermatt rescued them after his partner called for help. Last weekend also was busy for the rescue services. Air Zermatt answered--in two days--more than twenty calls from mountain travellers in trouble, most of them with "only" light injuries. A remarkable number of alpinists were evacuated because they couldn't or wouldn't climb further. The PGHM of Chamonix for example winched "stuck" people from hard routes on the Dru and the Grandes Jorasses. Mont Blanc took again three lives last Saturday. The German woman and men were missing for two days when they were found dead near the Grands Mulets. They had tried to take a more difficult variant of the Standard Route. Finally, today, three climbers were hit by falling ice at the Dome des Ecrins, also in the French Alps.

2007 has become one of the darkest summers in the past half-century. Only in 1997 did so many climbers lose their lives in such a short period. The reason is generally unclear. It is known that in some cases, climbers were not well prepared. The group of four who died on Mont Blanc, for example, did not have proper clothing to protect from the elements, and they did not attempt to dig a shelter in the snow. Bruno Jelk, Chief of the Zermatt Rescue Service, confirmed that many climbers this season have entered the mountains without proper equipment and training. He also adds that everyone--even those prepared--must be more careful in the mountains, which are becoming less stable every year due to the changing climate. "

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so i guess in all it was good we did not go but at the end of the day this is the game that we play...........!

Stanage Trip Report

Well have now just got back from A weekend in Stanage. Myself and Matt travelled up on Sunday morning around Four o'clock and were up in derby shire in an impressive 31/2 hours. Sunday started nice and bright and we were able to get a couple of routes in with Matt getting his first serve and me a few serves as well as a HVS which was cool. I found an ideal E1 for myself but did not like the landing on it so we decided to head back to the B&B to get the bouldering mat and have ago. on returning the weather caved in on us and it started to drissal. unfortunately the slabby E1 i had found did not take long before it turned into a waterfall so had to call it off. after a few wet bouldering problems and trying to find some dry boulders in the forest we decided to head back to the B&B for some food and rest.

The next day dawned fairly promising and with us both nursing heavy hangovers we headed back up to Stanage for another go. this time we left the rack at home and just took the bouldering mat for an attempt at some of the Peak districts classic problems. after warming up on some great low graded problems we headed over to Brad Pitt a renowned and famous Boulder problem which goes at V10 8a but due to fairly drissaly weather i just could not slap the slopping holds. next time maybe. Photos from the trip are available in the side bar on the right. We are planning some long day trips up there so i will post more when i know. Laters.

Good and Bad news.

Unfortunately we have had to cancel our Alps trip. Richard has developed a bad injury in his leg which is going to serverly hamper any progress on the mountain. Any attempt on the mountain would be unwise due to the obvous large walking distances that we would be covering. But the mountain will still be there next year so we plan to try again then.

On the other hand this has freed me up so Myself and Matt are heading to Stange for a couple of days on 21st July so i can update my SPA and show Matt what Trad climbing is all about. Photos and videos of the trip will be avaiable the day we get back.

Mount Blanc Trip details

After some debate and fitting in work we have finially found a spare week that fits in both with us and the French weather. Rich and myself will be heading out to France on Sunday July 29th with the intension to climb Mount Blanc which lies at a height of (4807m / 15767ft) being the hieghtest peak in Europe. Although Mount Elbrus in Russia is higher most Scientist count this as being outside Europe. We have one week out there with the normal route which we intend to do first taking two days staying in the hut over night. The first few days will be used for acclimatization making sure we adjust to the lack of oxygen.

So far the trip has cost around £400 and we have not even left yet. Most of the necessarily gear has been brought with only a few item remaining on the shopping list. We intend to drive down and to save money we we will be sleeping in the car as much as we can, that is if we can hide from the French police. If all goes well on our first ascent we will be trying another more difficult route to the summit. So with weather permitting by the end of the week we should have two routes under our belt and truly knackered.
More reports and links will be avaiable soon.
Laters

Greece Dates Confirmed.

We finally got everyone together and worked out the dates for the next trip Away. September the 19th will see us heading back out to Kalymnos in Greece for a weeks climbing. It will be my second trip Kalymnos and the other lads first. Personally, I'm looking forward to the scooters the most but having experienced the climbing out there and failing on some of the routes I'm feeling good about going back out

So far six of us will be heading out with a few of them staying on for two weeks. So it gives us a couple more months of training yet before we head out there. So far most days have been spent trawling through the guide book trying to remember the best places and day dreaming of being back there. Our Olympus flight leaves on 19th and it cant come to quickly.

But before Greece.........................

Before all this me and rich are off to France to attempt Mount Blanc via two routes. We will be heading out to attempt Europe's Highest mountain in late July early August as this is the best time for the weather. with any luck and decent weather and providing we acclimatize well we should manage it. The first few days will be spent acclimatizing to the thin air and moving up and down the lower parts of the mountain slowly gaining height and later on in the week we will push for the summit. If time allows then we will then come back down and try again via a more difficult route. Updates and links will be available soon.

Day 7. An easy one.

Today was a fairly relaxed one. It was just myself in from early doors till close putting up a couple of the new routes and cleaning a big batch of holds. I also managed to make a few of the volumes today and finishing touches will be made to these tomorrow when we plan to install them. The place is really looking brighter now and already good positive feedback has been made by our regular climbers.

The Beginnings of a new Volume

I also ordered are first batch of new holds today with over 250 coming next week. This should help to really set the center of nicely. So tomorrow is set to be another busy one with the volumes being finished and put up along with finishing some of the routes to various walls we should of completed by tomorrow.

Some of the new routes on the 9m wall

Day 6. Thursday.

Another crazy day today seeing us getting loads done. It was cool through as the center was closed meaning we didn't have to worry about working around climbers. We managed to completely strip, put two coats of paint on and replace the anchors. And it only took 8 hours!!!!!!!!! although it does now look good. Dave Rich and myself spent the time hanging in harness painting section by section and then going over it again for its second coat. the features were then painted in blue so they are now easily recognizable from the ground.

Sam loosing all feelings in his legs

New routes and replacement ropes will be put up tomorrow along with the volumes that we are currently making. the wall will feature routes from 3a to 7c so will offer everyojne something to climb. So hopefully a chilled out day setting routes tomorrow with any luck!!! as always massive thanks goes out to the guys for there hard work.

The finished article

Day 5 and back wall almost complete.

Sunday 10th saw us complete the back section of the center. the only thing missing now is the two volumes. these have been forced on hold due to me completely knackering the electric plane so badly that not even dewalt can fix it. but no worries as i have drafted in another from one of the climbers, Jez Reed so many thanks for him. Hopefully the new volumes will be up and climbable by the end of this week.

Back wall as we left it sunday night
The next task is the 9m wall but we got to carefully work out when we can do it as we have to work it round groups and busy periods. Looks like Thursday when we are closed will be our best bet. Once thats done not much more will be needed to be painted. A few more volumes need to be built and T-Nutted then the centre is pretty much done. Massive thanks to Dave Rob and Rich for there route setting skills and helping get the centre climbable in time. Nice one Guys!!!!

Day Four.

What a day today was. We managed to do what we aimed for a striped painted and re coated a huge chunk of the centre. It was an absolute mission but now its done it looks good. Starting a midday Dave, Richard, Rob and myself started to strip the holds off the wall and prepare the surfaces and started to apply the paint.
Rob provided to be vary handy with his useless tips and general lazying around the place although we found him useful for some jobs but fair play to him. Oh, and he has proven to be vary handy at painting certain pictures on the walls. Enough said just don't look behind the overhang!!!!

Dave and Rich got stuck in from start to finish and with the exception of a few phone calls to be made on Rich's behalf, mainly to organise piss ups. Lessons still had to go one though so i had to teach for a while which left the lads to finish off and a what a great job they done. The painting is now being left to dry over night and tomorrow we will put in the routes ready for the evening.

The whole task took about seven hours to complete. fiddle little sections to paint and stuck holds held us up for a while but aggression got rid of them with the help of hammers

We are still waiting for the volume as reported yesterday to finish off the wall painted the other day. We will also be putting a different volume in under the overhang in the yellow section pictured above but again your have to wait and see as to what shape it will be.

Tomorrows job is to set the routes and clean all the holds we took off today. Route cards will be done for all of the routes already set up. The future jobs are set to be the hardest i reckon with the big 9m wall still left to paint. Hopefully tomorrow evening i can report on the completion of the back section of the centre and it will be open for use.

Massive thanks has to go out to the tremendous effort put in by Dave, Rich and that other guy........... oh yeah Rob!!!!!! Great job guys and session on soon!!

Day 3 and wall one and two completely finished........almost!!!

Today was an easy day compared with the others as all we need to do was set routes on the walls we had already painted. The paint had dried over night and within two hours the routes were up and the wall was open once again to the general public. So the wall is now complete.......... Almost. It is just waiting for the volume to be put up which has almost been built. Unfortunately i knackered the power plane needed to finish the edges off so needless to say work stopped. However a replacement is due Sunday so should be done by then.

The 'almost' finished wall. The middle of the red wall where there are no holds is were the volume will go.

So tomorrows plan of action. A big one tomorrow with a huge chunk of the wall being striped painted and re routed. Its a risk cause its a Saturday and bound to be fairly busy but the sooner this is done the sooner we can start on the extension upstairs. Smithy is away now until late next week and im on orders to complete it by the time he gets back. But as you can see above it has certainly brightened the place up.

Day 2 of the Re-Vamp

Day 2 of the Re-Vamp.
Well the slabs were finished off today and touched up with paint a the first of the new routes went up. The main task was the wall next to it which we striped and painted. Did not all go to plan though as smithy had a hell of a time trying to paint the top section hanging in his harness for over an hour. Not nice!!! the wall took about five hours to do which was longer than planned but we took our time having too coats of paint on and features removed and painted as well.

Second wall completed. Just the holds to put back on.

Tomorrows job is a small one as its my day off. Repainting a few of the features and setting new routes on the walls ready for use on Friday.
No work will be done over the weekend as the centre will be too busy but it will all resume at the start of next week. Again a massive thanks go out to Smithy as well as Dave and James for helping out. would of certainly took longer without them. Cheers guys !!!!

New Look Rev under way!!!!!

Day 1
Today was the first day of a new look Revolution Climbing Wall. Work has been started on the painting with the slab area now re-painted in some real bright colours. Features have been added and all holds have been cleaned ready for some route setting tomorrow.

New Slab area freahly painted. Holds still to be added!!!!!

Plans for Wednesday are to start on the wall next to it. We just have to strip it of all the holds and Features and Paint the wall surface. One section will be red the other will be yellow. Plus a giant new feature will appear on the wall but your have to wait to see what it is. Massive thanks to Smithy and Joe for helping out today. Nice one guys!!!!!

Training update. Injuries already.

A few days into the training now and already certain members have picked up injuries. Luckily only skin injuries and soft tissue ones but enough to hamper progress. Smithy managed to some how open up quite a large whole in his knuckle whilst bouldering today but we are still unsure of how he done it!!!!!!!!

Smithy's mystery injury

He sure holds the record in the group of injuries with his personal best being a broken ankle on the first day of a week long trip to Sardinia. Needless to say he was not a happy bunny but comforted himself by spending the week chain smoking and creating a new sport called off road crutching.

Sam training upper body strength on the ladder

The rest of us however have avoided injury so far and are working on methods of protecting our hands whilst on the ladders with a certain degree of success. Pictures and videos are avaiable in the right hand tool bar.

Multi pitching in Sardinia.

Just got the photos in from the last trip to Sardinia in April 2007. This trip was slightly different from the rest due to the fact that the objective this year were higher grades and pushing our selfs rather than mileage and route numbers. As reported earlier we managed to beat our personal best with climbs up to 7b. The new photos are available in the gallery section in the right hand side of this page. Another first out there was Robs first experience of multi pitch trad climbing. A perfect 100m, three pitch route up the right hand side arete of Budinetto. Me and rob completed the route in about 40mins and by the end Rob was confident in setting up anchors and placing protection.

Sam Setting off to lead the second pitch. Rob On belay. Around 40m up the route. The valley floor visible below.

Deutsch wall was our next objective at 90m high and grade 6c. Unfortunately bad weather and high winds forced us down after just one pitch. This is three years running now were we have not been able to get to the top of the route. Our highest point being the 6c third pitch. Plans for the next trip include Deutsch wall and a few routes on the 180m seven pitch crags just outside Cala Gonone.

Chase The Eights.

The Race is on with the Boys at Revolution Climbing Center. The Challenge??? First one of us to Boulder to the grade of 8a. Currently bouldering around 7b/7b+ this is quite a mammoth task. Especially when our trip to font in France is coming up in September. So the race for the eights is on and training has begun already. Newly installed at the centre is our rope ladder designed by Smithy in order to help train strength. Using it a few times a week, the lads should start seeing some big changes in strength. Over use it though and big damage can be done to muscles. Updates will be made avaiable as well as a rough training guide to what the lads are doing.

Smithy Training on the new ladder installed at Revolution Climbing Center

Greece. Kalymnos Rock Trip May 2007

Just got back from an amazing week in Kalymnos, and i thought Sardinia could not be beaten for rock quality. The place certainly lives up to the hype about the climbing.

May 16th saw John, Joe, Bruce and myself catching our flight over to Kos and then a short ferry journey over to the island of Kalymnos. Unfortunately the plane was delayed which meant we missed our ferry over and had to wait to gone eleven at night to catch the next one getting to bed by 1am.

The next few days were spent getting up early to avoid the heat of the day and climbing on various crags including Odyssey and Arhi both very impressive to look at and climb. Whilist John and myself hit some of three star 6a's and 6b's, Bruce and Joe started off hitting some great 6c's and 7a's climbing some very impressive lines where ever they went.

Joe climbing Neolithic Line 7c at Jurassic Park Sector

After a few days John and Myself decided to up the game a bit and went to try Harakiri at sector Spartacus. Unfortunately thought we went off route at mid height and onto to the next route graded at 6c+. After bailing off this we went up to Jurassic Park sector to meet up with the lads and climbed Themelis a beautiful line of 30m with crux at the small roof half height. The next few days saw flashes of 6a's, 6a+'s and the odd 6b, as well as on sights and redpoints of a few sevens from Bruce and Joe.

Later on in the week Joe and Bruce tried to attempt there first 8a with Helios at sector North Cape. after clipping the draws both made great attempts at it but just fell short of the chains. a great effort and fantastic to watch.

Joe coming down after just falling short of the chains on his 8a attempt

John and myself finished the week off by heading to Kasteli for the morning and climbing some off the three star classic from 5c+-6a+. I managed around thirty routes in my week out there with higher leads coming in the last few days as it took me quite a while to get used to the lenght of the routes out there. another trip is planned for September / October 2007 and details will be posted here.

Sam climbing Joggel and Toggel 6c+

Revolution Climbing Center

The link below should take you to the Revolution climbing Center and give you an idea of what i do for work. Any information on the center that you cant find on the site just email me through the links and ill answer as soon as possiable.

http://www.revolutionskatepark.co.uk/climbing_new/index.html

Dave Collom attempting the dyno at the back of the centre

Scotland 2006.

In July 2006 a small group of us headed up to scotland for a few days climbing on and around Ben Nevis. The group consisted of Paul, Matt and myself with the aim to camp in Fort William and hike to the north face of Ben Nevis each day. After driving up there for nearly ten hours we made our way to the campsite and sent up tents. After sorting everything out and having a little sleep we headed up the tourist path that leads up Ben Nevis and round the side to the North side.

Looking at Ben Nevis from the North Face Car Park. Tower ridge and Douglas Boulder viable left of centre
Our Fisrt day was to be a warm up and practice so we choose Castle ridge which follows the right hand side arete if looking from the CIC hut. After the inital scrambing start to the route up easy slabs the route becomes more vertical and most tend to use ropes at some point. After one or two short rope lenghts the ground eased up allowing us to scramble to the top. A mistake was made which lead us up an exstemely loose and rock fall prone gully to the left of the route which provide an interesting finish.

Looking down Castle Ridge from the top.

After descending down a never ending scree slope we made our way back out via the tourist path and down to the pub at the bottom. Next Day we were out again this time on walking in from the other side via the north face car park. Our Objective this day was Tower ridge. Graded at VDiff is was well with in our grade. We decided to tackle the douglas Boulder start and through trial an error made it to the top only to find the weather close in and the heavens open up leaving us no choose but to abseil off the route and down climb via the right hand side gully back to the CIC hut and out along the path to our tents in the valley below.

Matt and Paul at the top of the Douglas Boulder just before our forced retreat.

Day three saw us hit a few trad climbs around the base of Ben Nevis completing climbs up to VS including multi pitch routes. We had intended to stay the night again but decided to make the long car journey back instead hoping traffic was not going to be bad. All in all it gave all of us a good insight into long mountain routes and more trips are planned for 2007.

Sam outside the CIC hut with Tower ridge in the background

View from the top of the douglas boulder lokking back along to the North Face Car park

Sardinia Climbing April 2007.

April 2007 saw our third trip over to the island of Sardinia. The main objective for this holiday was to try and get up our first grade 7a. Team members were me, Rob Hutton, David Collom, James Heatie, Richard Collom, Katie (long second name i cat spell beginning with S) and Sally Ann Harris. This would be a return trip for many of the climbers on the team. Staying in Cala Gonone our first crag was Cala Fuili. We hit this on the day we arrived and treated it as a day to re-accustom to the rock. Rob,David,rich and myself headed over to the left hand side to do some high fives and low six grades whilst Katie,Sally and James hit the slabs on the steps.
With everyone feeling confident and up for more, the next day we headed up to Biddinetto which has plenty of lower to mid grade climbs up to 6c. Whilst the girls and James headed for the main bowl area, Rob and me headed for the Right hand side arete to try the three pitch trad route which follows the the obvious line up to the top of the bowl. Graded in the guide book and 3c this route was well within our capabilities. After racking up and our camera man in tow (David) rob set up the first pitch but soon hit difficulties. The first pitch looks to of been affected by Rock fall since the time it was put up which now leaves a clean slab which proved to be interesting with poor to no gear to place until the angle mellows off and jugs appear. Around Grade 5a/b now. After following we slung leads and i took the next pitch which gives great exposure for the grade climbing along a narrow ridge line but with big holds and plenty of gear leading to a few delicate moves over a slab avoidable if you take the right hand side up to the next belay point. Rob lead the final pitch which is again great for the grade. There is an alternative route going directly over the overhang but beware of loose rock. the original line takes the left hand side and is protected by a rusty Bolt. Don't trust!!!! Easy ground then leads to the belay point and provides a great view over Cala Gonone. (Pictured Above) After topping out we set about heading down via the left hand side which is easy scrambling ground. More photos to be added of the ascent soon.

Once down we join the others who had been playing around of Some high fives and low sixes including the route that broke a team members ankle in a fall earlier on in the year. Most of the team took falls on these with some impressive ones being taken on the low down crux of the 6c. Me and Katie then decided on Doing the two pitch route Hulu and were forced down after a mini epic on the belay stance of the second pitch and due to the intense heat and no water we abbed down to the find some shade and rest up. Later that day we hit Poltrano with its impressive 90m slabs and the classic line of Deutsch Wall. this route hand eluded me for the past three years as various events forced us down previously. Me and rob had plans later in the week to make another attempt. The evening was spent climbing easier to mid grades with David, Sally-Ann, James and Rich all doing a brilliant 5c which takes you over a small roof providing some superb exposure and great climbing positions.

The next view days were spent playing around on various crags with ascents up to 6c being had by Rob and myself. But still 7a eluded us. Trips to Biddiscotti saw me and rob attempt a stiff grade 6c+ which took a good few tries to work out the low down crux before finally cracking it only to realize the line of bolts shared the same as one next to it which was being climbed by a group of German climbers. Rob hung on the bolt for around half an hour whilst they finished but in the end we decided that the route above was much easier and the hard part had been done some came down. Katie Dave and James attempted a 6a in the corner of the cave which proved to be much harder than the guide suggested but was eventually completed by Dave using a series of interesting moves. Great effort!!!!!

A few days later saw us Back in Cala Fuili were after completeing a few 6a's and 6bs me and Rob headed for a line we had seen the year before. Dubadabur is graded 7a+/b the crux is a low down boulder problem involving Monos and pinch to a long reach to poor holds. Once the first two meters are done the grade eases off to around 6b+ until you reach a ramp line close to the top were the grade eases again to around 6a. After a load of attempts trying to get the start rob finally managed to hold the poor slopers and having clipped the next bolt finished the route to complete his first Grade seven. After retrying the start over and over again i finally managed the sequence with a little help with small intermediate holds and soon found myself at the top of my first Grade seven. Video of robs ascent coming soon. that night the beers flowed!!!!!

Whilst this was going on Katie had a mini epic thanks to a miss understanding between belayer and climber on a pumpy 6a with James almost pulling her off the route after mistaking thinking she had called take when actually she wanted slack to clip. She pulled through though and although not her style of climbing made a good on sight of the route.

Climbing at Cala Fuili

Over the last few days team members climbed some impressive grades considering there short length of time climbing with ascents of up to 6b+ been climbed on sight. A sure sign of some promising talent. Mine and Robs attempt of Deutsch Wall was again cut short because of high winds and rain after reaching the bottom of pitch two. All climbers surpassed the grades they wanted to climb and all was left was too hit the booze one last night and hit the road for the journey home.