With everyone feeling confident and up for more, the next day we headed up to Biddinetto which has plenty of lower to mid grade climbs up to 6c. Whilst the girls and James headed for the main bowl area, Rob and me headed for the Right hand side arete to try the three pitch trad route which follows the the obvious line up to the top of the bowl. Graded in the guide book and 3c this route was well within our capabilities. After racking up and our camera man in tow (David) rob set up the first pitch but soon hit difficulties. The first pitch looks to of been affected by Rock fall since the time it was put up which now leaves a clean slab which proved to be interesting with poor to no gear to place until the angle mellows off and jugs appear. Around Grade 5a/b now. After following we slung leads and i took the next pitch which gives great exposure for the grade climbing along a narrow ridge line but with big holds and plenty of gear leading to a few delicate moves over a slab avoidable if you take the right hand side up to the next belay point. Rob lead the final pitch which is again great for the grade.
There is an alternative route going directly over the overhang but beware of loose rock. the original line takes the left hand side and is protected by a rusty Bolt. Don't trust!!!! Easy ground then leads to the belay point and provides a great view over Cala Gonone. (Pictured Above) After topping out we set about heading down via the left hand side which is easy scrambling ground. More photos to be added of the ascent soon.Once down we join the others who had been playing around of Some high fives and low sixes including the route that broke a team members ankle in a fall earlier on in the year. Most of the team took falls on these with some impressive ones being taken on the low down crux of the 6c. Me and Katie then decided on Doing the two pitch route Hulu and were forced down after a mini epic on the belay stance of the second pitch and due to the intense heat and no water we abbed down to the find some shade and rest up. Later that day we hit Poltrano with its impressive 90m slabs and the classic line of Deutsch Wall. this route hand eluded me for the past three years as various events forced us down previously. Me and rob had plans later in the week to make another attempt. The evening was spent climbing easier to mid grades with David, Sally-Ann, James and Rich all doing a brilliant 5c which takes you over a small roof providing some superb exposure and great climbing positions.
The next view days were spent playing around on various crags with ascents up to 6c being had by Rob and myself. But still 7a eluded us. Trips to Biddiscotti saw me and rob attempt a stiff grade 6c+ which took a good few tries to work out the low down crux before finally cracking it only to realize the line of bolts shared the same as one next to it which was being climbed by a group of German climbers. Rob hung on the bolt for around half an hour whilst they finished but in the end we decided that the route above was much easier and the hard part had been done some came down. Katie Dave and James attempted a 6a in the corner of the cave which proved to be much harder than the guide suggested but was eventually completed by Dave using a series of interesting moves. Great effort!!!!!
A few days later saw us Back in Cala Fuili were after completeing a few 6a's and 6bs me and Rob headed for a line we had seen the year before. Dubadabur is graded 7a+/b the crux is a low down boulder problem involving Monos and pinch to a long reach to poor holds. Once the first two meters are done the grade eases off to around 6b+ until you reach a ramp line close to the top were the grade eases again to around 6a. After a load of attempts trying to get the start rob finally managed to hold the poor slopers and having clipped the next bolt finished the route to complete his first Grade seven. After retrying the start over and over again i finally managed the sequence with a little help with small intermediate holds and soon found myself at the top of my first Grade seven. Video of robs ascent coming soon. that night the beers flowed!!!!!
Whilst this was going on Katie had a mini epic thanks to a miss understanding between belayer and climber on a pumpy 6a with James almost pulling her off the route after mistaking thinking she had called take when actually she wanted slack to clip. She pulled through though and although not her style of climbing made a good on sight of the route.
Climbing at Cala FuiliOver the last few days team members climbed some impressive grades considering there short length of time climbing with ascents of up to 6b+ been climbed on sight. A sure sign of some promising talent. Mine and Robs attempt of Deutsch Wall was again cut short because of high winds and rain after reaching the bottom of pitch two. All climbers surpassed the grades they wanted to climb and all was left was too hit the booze one last night and hit the road for the journey home.
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